Passion for craft
– September 13, 2024 | Text Beatriz Maio | Photos Charlotte Cockayne/Open Media Group
Portugal is renowned for its delicious gastronomy, boasting fresh, local ingredients that entice the taste buds. Beyond the superb wines produced in various regions, the country is also home to exceptional craft beers that reflect its rich heritage – and the southern region is no exception.
Vila do Bispo is home to Cerveja Vicentina, a craft beer born out of Catarina de Lencastre’s passion for the Algarve coast.
Originally from Porto, Catarina grew up in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence region, France. She describes herself as an epicurean and has always felt a deep connection to agriculture and wholesome, quality food. Her childhood memories are filled with days spent planting and harvesting in her vegetable garden and afternoons spent climbing mountains to gather wild herbs like thyme and lavender.
“I’ve always loved everything that comes from the earth. Plants and nature are a constant source of inspiration for me,” she emphasised as she praised Vila do Bispo, where she currently lives.
The idea of creating her own beer brand came about in 2018 when Catarina, a law graduate from the Free University of Brussels in Belgium, moved to Portugal.
Past experiences in the food industry underscored the “importance of promoting the true taste of products”, igniting her interest in beers.
She realised she wanted to channel her passion into her own business within this field when she met the brewer Olivier Vincent and artist Elzo Durt, both of whom played pivotal roles in bringing her vision to life.
Olivier Vincent, a Belgian brewer and winner of the 2017 BJCP Portuguese Cup for the English Brown Ale style – a prestigious title in the Portuguese National Competition of Homemade and Artisanal Beers – became an invaluable collaborator.
Together, they embarked on a journey to craft a genuine and distinctive beer. With the creation of the Vicentina brand, Catarina worked alongside Olivier in various craft breweries, learning the intricacies of brewing and, to this day, she meticulously follows these creations.
Elzo Durt, who created the artwork for each label, is another important part of the puzzle that is Cerveja Vicentina.
“He created a real work of art for each of the beers, inspired by subjects such as the São Vicente lighthouse, the sea, and the Algarvian coastline,” says Catarina.
“At first, we had planned to open our own brewery in Vila do Bispo, but circumstances, including the Covid-19 pandemic, led us to partner with local breweries for production to reduce initial investment,” she explains.
Currently, production takes place at the Mania brewery (in Lagos). Catarina reveals that with time and the right investment, she wishes to open a brewery in Vila do Bispo to expand production to meet growing demand and expand storage capacity.
“My aim is to sell a high-quality, flavourful beer on a bigger scale and that stays true to its essence,” she stresses. The businesswoman adds that her main concern is to produce an “authentic brew or beverage that can surprise through a unique sensory experience”.
To cater to diverse tastes and settings, Cerveja Vicentina offers three distinct varieties – a selection developed over two years and which “has resulted in a range of balanced, smooth and refreshing beers, suited to the Portuguese climate and respecting the Belgian brewing tradition”, explained the owner. She also revealed that a new beer is currently being developed exclusively for a luxury resort in the municipality of Vila do Bispo.
The Golden Ale, the lightest of the trio, is perfect for those new to the craft beer culture, and ideal for social gatherings or leisurely moments in a relaxed atmosphere.
Their popular IPA, renowned for its vibrant hop freshness with bitter and floral notes, appeals particularly to craft beer aficionados.
Finally, the award-winning Brown Ale is a light-body beer with a toasty, sweet flavour that pairs wonderfully with traditional Algarvian sweets made from almonds, figs, carob, and oranges.
Although Catarina would love to use locally grown cereals for her brews, for now Cerveja Vicentina is crafted from cereals imported mainly from Belgium and Germany due to the lack of a malt industry for craft brewing in the area. Nevertheless, the end product is a perfect alliance between ancient Belgian and Portuguese brewing traditions and a deep love for the Vicentine Coast.
But Catarina’s ambitions extend beyond just crafting beer. She envisions a larger project with like-minded partners who share her philosophy of protecting and developing local high-quality productions whilst promoting the region.
This is why participation in local events is a crucial part of her plan, so she can interact directly with customers, potential partners and promote her brand.
As Cerveja Vicentina continues to evolve, Catarina is eager to collaborate with enthusiasts who share the vision of “creating a vibrant community where values, cultures and flavours converge, whilst promoting responsible business practices that are mindful of safeguarding this magnificent natural reserve”.
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